Episode 2 - Installing side windows, awning rail, side pods & preparing the floor

• Preparation: Precision is key when cutting window openings. I used 11x13cm templates to mark the exact spots on both the passenger and driver sides, double-checking measurements to ensure accuracy.
• Framing: To secure the windows, I built frames using 25x50mm roofing battens, bolted to the van’s interior. These provide a surface for the window clamps to grip.
• Cutting: I masked off the cutting area with painter’s tape to prevent scratches and used a jigsaw to follow the guideline. A multi-tool was used to carefully remove internal strengthening crossmembers, which I weakened and snapped off.
• Finishing: After sanding and priming the cut edges with metal primer (inside and out), I applied a bead of SikaFlex 221 sealant around the window channel, wiped the area with alcohol wipes, and clamped the windows in place. It is useful to have an extra pair of hands at this point to hold the windows in place and clamp them in place!
• Side Pods: I also installed bump-out side pods for the traverse bed, glueing and clamping them with SikaFlex 221 and leaving them overnight to set.

• Marking and Drilling: I marked the rail’s position and drilled pilot holes for accuracy.
• Securing: After applying SikaFlex 221 to the back of the rail, I screwed it into place and sealed around the edges for a watertight finish.

• Removing Shackles: Using a spline drive, I removed the shackles securing the floor. I marked the board joints and a 70mm channel for utilities (conduit and water pipes).
• Lifting the Floor: The floor was glued with a tar-like substance, so I used pump wedges to gently lift it on a warm day, sliding a piece of wood underneath to pry it up as the tar broke away.
• Cleaning: I scraped off the tar and removed small wooden blocks with felt from the floor. A thorough wipe-down left the van’s metal surface clean.
• Utility Channels: I marked a 70mm channel across the middle and rear for hot and cold water lines (from a rear water tank) and electrical cables (mains and 12V) to the kitchen pod.
• Framing: I cut eight 3.6m 50x25mm roofing battens to create a grid pattern (300mm noggins at the rear, 325mm at the front), glued them down with SikaFlex and used spacers and self-drilling screws for stability.
• Reinstalling: I placed the original floor back, weighed it down with heavy objects, and left it overnight for the adhesive to set.

• Fitted a passenger-side window and bump-out pod.
• Installed a driver-side window and bump-out pod.
• Added an awning rail for outdoor functionality.
• Fitted the side bump-out pods.
• Lifted the factory floor, cleaned it, and prepared utility channels.

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